Will we see whales today? If so, how many? And will they merely spout some spray into the air to alert us to their presence, will we see their backs glide gently out of and back into the water, will there be some tails up in the air or are they putting on a full-on breaching and tail-flapping show for us?

Watching mighty humpback whales in the ocean off Coffs Harbour

No matter how many times you’ve seen whales, because they’re so mighty and so unpredictable, every time you see one it’s exciting again. And it unites people, pointing them out to those who haven’t spotted them yet and going “oh” and “ah” and “wow” in unison.

Every year from late May, thousands of mighty humpback whales migrate north along the east coast of Australia from the cold Antarctic seas to the warm ocean waters off the Queensland coast to breed.

Along the NSW Coffs Coast, in June, July and early August you’ll see them on their way up, while from late August to early November they’ll be going back south with their calves. The whales actually tend to swim a bit closer to shore on their way back in order to protect their calves, so you may even get a closer view then.

Various tail-shots of migrating humpback whales along the Coffs Coast

Here are some excellent spots around Coffs Harbour to watch whales:

• On the water – aboard a whale-watching cruise, e.g. Spirit of Coffs Harbour Cruises (ph. 02 6650 0155) or Pacific Explorer (ph. 02 6652 8988)
• From the top of or the viewing platform on Muttonbird Island in Coffs Harbour
• From Beacon Hill Lookout on Victoria Street, Coffs Harbour Jetty area
• From Boambee or Bonville Headlands in Sawtell
• From Macauleys Headland, between Diggers Beach and Park Beach in Coffs Harbour
• From Look At Me Now Headland in Emerald Beach
• From Woolgoolga Headland in Woolgoolga

Bring your binoculars and if you’re going on a boat, make sure you bring your camera as I guarantee you’ll want to take lots of photos or videos!

All the headlands and lookout points mentioned above have benches to sit on, or bring a rug and a picnic and park yourselves on the grass for a relaxing game of “spot the whales”.

It’s a good idea to wait for calm weather because it can be incredibly difficult if not impossible to spot whales when the sea is choppy. Have fun!

One popular cycle route is the cycle path along Hogbin Drive between Coffs Harbour and the neighbouring village of Sawtell. The cycleway is separated from the road by a nature strip so it’s a safe and relaxing ride. And Sawtell makes a fun destination.

Just the stretch along Hogbin Drive is 6km, but if you go from the centre of Coffs Harbour to the centre of Sawtell it’s 10km. That’s a distance you can easily do in one hour (i.e. going a very leisurely 10km/hr).

A tree-lined section of the Hogbin Drive cycleway, Coffs Harbour - Sawtell

We enjoy meeting up with friends early on Sunday morning at the start of Hogbin Drive and riding to Sawtell to have breakfast before making our way back.

Some sections of the route you’ll be riding in the shade of tall trees while others are more open, giving you wide views of the area.

Cycling along Hogbin Drive near the university campus in Coffs Harbour

At the end of Hogbin Drive, you turn left into Sawtell Road and follow that for about 3km until you reach the centre of Sawtell.

However, if you want to avoid some steep hills, take the following easier, flatter option: At the roundabout at the end of Hogbin Drive, continue straight onto Toormina Road. After passing Centro Toormina Shopping Centre, turn left into Minorie Drive, at the end turn right into Werambie Street and take the path that brings you to the back of the Sawtell Railway Station.

Cross the railway line, follow Hulberts Road to Sixteenth Avenue and then take any left turn off there to bring you to First Avenue, Sawtell’s main street.

Park the bicycles, have a look around the Sawtell shops or follow the inevitable coffee aromas to find a good café for breakfast, morning tea or lunch.

The outdoor café at the Sawtell Surf Club, overlooking the beach

The Sawtell Surf Club Café being my favourite destination in Sawtell, we usually end up at a table overlooking magnificent Sawtell Beach. Keep an eye out for dolphins frolicking in the ocean and, between May and November, passing humpback whales.

For the bike ride back to Coffs Harbour, you can go the same way you came, but in reverse, or try an alternative route through the streets of Sawtell back to Hogbin Drive, although you may want to have a map with you… or someone who knows the way.

Once you’ve done this fun, safe and easy bike ride, I’m sure you’ll want to do it more often. Especially with the cafés in Sawtell having such great rewards on offer for your efforts!

To get there, drive north from Coffs Harbour, take the Emerald Beach turnoff from the Highway onto Fiddaman Road and turn right at Dammerel Crescent to the carpark at the foot of the headland.

Look At Me Now Headland is part of Moonee Beach Nature Reserve. There’s a short walking trail that takes you up and around the headland,  which is a significant Aboriginal site.

Start of short walking track at Look At Me Now Headland

At the start of the walking trail, there’s a National Parks & Wildlife Services information panel with plenty of interesting facts about the Aboriginal heritage and the flora and fauna of the area.

You can first take the 100m side track to Moonee Lookout for expansive views south over Moonee Beach Nature Reserve and out onto Mount Coramba in the western distance.

South Solitary Island and its Lighthouse as seen from the headland

Back on the main paved walkway over the headland, you’ll get amazing views over the Pacific Ocean, South Solitary Island with its heritage lighthouse (still working but now automatically operated), usually deserted Moonee Beach to the south and the village of Emerald Beach to the north.

Don’t be startled if you see a bunch of Eastern Grey Kangaroos grazing or lazing around the headland – they actually live there and as long as you leave them be, they’ll hardly take any notice of you. I’ve taken lots of kangaroo photos there because, being so out in the open and up on the headland, they make a great contrast with the blue sky or ocean behind them.

Kangaroos at Look At Me Now Headland with Moonee Beach behind

Between May and November, there’s also a good chance you’ll spot migrating humpback whales from here.

You can return to the carpark the same way you came or take the stairs down onto Shelley Beach and at about two-thirds of the length of the beach, take the track leading back to the other side of the carpark (that’s a 700m circuit in all, according to the info panel).

There are two very nice restaurants, a general store and an art gallery on Fiddamans Road, in case you were looking at staying on in Emerald Beach a while longer.

View from the top of Muttonbird Island over Coffs Harbour

Muttonbird Island is unique because:

• although it’s an island, you can walk to it because it’s attached to the mainland via the northern breakwall, so it’s very accessible;
• it’s a seabird rookery and is home to thousands of muttonbirds (wedge-tailed shearwaters, is what they’re called officially) between August and April;
• there’s a paved path over the top to the other side (1km return), giving you unsurpassed 360-degree views from the top back over Coffs Harbour, along the coast, the beaches and the ocean;
• there’s a viewing platform at the end from where you can watch for passing humpback whales between May and November;
• it’s a Nature Reserve and the NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service has put up interpretive signs with interesting information about the shearwaters/muttonbirds and marine life such as the whales.

Throughout the day, people stroll along the North Wall, and may decide to go up Muttonbird Island or not. Usually the ones with proper walking shoes or trainers on and walking faster will go up. Who needs to go to the gym if you can tick off a trek up Muttonbird every day or a couple of times a week?!

Whether you go up or not (at least go halfway for the view back over the marina and Coffs Harbour!), there’s lots going on to look at when you walk along the North Wall too.

Coffs Harbour marina with fishing boats and pelicans

The scene will be different every day: fishermen offloading sharks and other big fish from their fishing boats, seagulls and pelicans in the air or the water, nice yachts moored in the marina, kayaks and canoes in the harbour, people fishing off the rocks on the breakwall, people jogging, walking their dog, cycling, swimming, snorkelling… it’s never the same and that’s why I never tire of this activitity.

It gives me fresh air to breath, great views and things to look at, a happy feeling inside to realise I’m living in such a wonderful place, and a health boost from the climb up Muttonbird Island. What more could you want?

And of course, when you come back, you can say you’ve “earned” that coffee & cake or brekkie at Wild Harvest (halfway along the North Wall), cone of ice cream from the Gelateria, fish & chips from the Fishermen’s Co-op, takeaway burger from Julie’s Galley or lunch on the veranda at the Yacht Club restaurant Y Knot (at the start of the North Wall) – so you can sit down and admire that view just a little bit longer!